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It’s hard for me to say that it was sad to find out one morning, that the defender does not start, and the battery is dead. After a small market survey and some exact measurements, two batteries landed in my yard .the measurements showed that it will be possible to put in 2 95Ah batteries 215 m"m wide over 303m"m long over175 m"m tall. Also the measurements showed that it's going to be much pressured and very annoying.

Due to the battery booth floor underneath the chair not being straight, probably due to draining reasons by the manufacturer. I prepared a stainless steel plate with the two batteries on top of it. Two M6 vertical screw driving sticks came out of the plate .the line that sticks the batteries together is going all along with the length of the batteries, and not the wide part, as might be expected, because of the shape of the booth. Note that the plate raises the battery a little, there for its important to find out that the higher part will be the one with the negative end, because the cover of the booth is so close to battery and can touch it .

To the inner part of the battery booth cover, I glued a piece of pvc  , that is used originally as  a conveyor belt .it should provide an isolation and protection , in a situation when I'm rolling over with the car and the battery is sitting with its two ends on the hood , creating an electrical circuit and burns my butt with an acid. I think that the battery's place in the defender isn’t safe. It invites an acid to link on the driver in a case of rolling over. There for I recommend even someone who doesn't have double batteries, to make sure that the batteries are well screwed to the bottom of the booth.


 

The cables are attached to the ends from the top instead of the side due to lack of space.

To the batteries I attached a switch that divides 4 possibilities:

 

When turning down it’s turned off, When turning right only the right is turned on, When turning up, both the left and right are on And when   turning left only left battery is on .

The switch was bought in a yacht gear store. and its used as a double battery set for yachts . It fits electric continuous current flaw

of 230 ampere and picks of until 345 ampere, in other words it doesn't fit the work of the winch.

There was also an heavy duty switch in a double price, that can pass higher flows – but it stayed at the store. I decided to connect the switch underneath the chair so it wouldn't interfere with my legs. I wanted to connect it in the battery booth so that  only the black button in the middle will stick out . Therefor I  attached it on the stainless steel part, in an omega shape and the part it self I attached to the booth's wall.

In the wall of the battery booth I drilled a hall with a cup drill and I connected the carrier with 4 m4 screwdrivers. As been said before, the switch can't stand for a long time in the flow pressure of the winch, that's why the winch is attached permanently to one of the batteries . its possible to combine it to the other battery by switching to stage 3. We should make sure that only the battery that works is the one that charges that’s why I'm getting used to switch to the other battery every time I start the car , that way I'm charging both of them .

Important: don't switch from a state of right battery to the left while the engine isn't on neutral revs .

I did it and the result was : 8 burned fuses , 4 burned light bulbs , 1 overhauled alternator , and a CB radio  that's been fixed  and nearly totally burned. Why?

From what my electrician guy said, the reason is that when the alternator doesn't have resistance from the battery, the tension controller in the alternator raises the tension until a tension equalization, since it doesn't have a battery in the other side, because the jenious behind the wheel is "switches batteries right now " it decreases as much as it can and that what caused all the damage.

Any way "Kids don't try this at home!" . In neutral revs there isn't any problem - trust me, I 've checked it several times.